Bura Na Mano Holi hai

Tales of Barsana

In the times of pandemic when the entire world is battling COVID-19, Mathura has a different tale to tell. As I walked through the lanes of Vrindavan, the town had its perpetual holy vibes attached to it. The divine chanting, temple bells and greetings of 'Radhe Radhe' created a magical rhythm in my senses. Yes, that's the beauty of 'Braj ki Holi', the most loved festival in Northern India. From Mathura, Brasana, Nandgaon, and Vrindavan to Gokul every street, lane and corner is filled with a hymns, people and colours.

 

Kids dressed up as Krishna and Radha playing Holi

The entire street was crowded and people pushing each other like raging bull 
just to get the glimpse of Lord Krishna and Radha

The love for religion, I believe it's much the same all over the world.

In my curiosity, I questioned one of the locals about the coronavirus which is spreading like wildfire around the world. His religious practice and beliefs shook me to the core.  

Local man: 'Radha Rani will figure out some solution for this deadly Coronavirus'. We don't have to worry about it, madam! He laughed and continued that their body is immune to such kinds of viruses and that praying is the only solution. With those words, he disappears into the crowd which is erupting in cheers and applause. Concerned about my safety, I made my way through the crowd to an area with far fewer people for my safety. 

Holi Celebration

The journey from Mathura to Barsana

I took a local bus to reach Barsana at the peak hours of the festive season. A 42 km crowded bumpy bus ride was an experience in itself. The journey became too long and tiring due to the unexpected traffic jam as devotees from different states and cities had gathered to reach the small Barsana village for the unique Hoil celebration. It became dark till the time I reached Barsana and not to my surprise, hotels and lodges were pre-booked because of the festival. I was exhausted and walking through the lanes with no hopes left and of course with a heavy backpack on my shoulders. I stopped near a tapri at the corner of the road for at least a cup of tea to relax. It was the only tapri open at the odd hours of the night.

Rakesh (the tea stall owner):  "It's too late for tea madame, closing time.

राकेश: इस समय चाय तो नही मिल पाएगी, लेट हो गई आप मेडम |

                                     
Rakesh continued, while closing the stall: "Your hometown is Delhi"?

राकेश (टपरी बंद करते हुए):  दिल्ली से आई है?

While I was scrolling through my phone, I replied: Yes! From Mumbai.

 मैं अपने फ़ोन पर स्क्रॉल करते हुए...नही मुंबई से|
  
Rakesh (curious): Bombay... for shooting?

राकेश (जिज्ञासा से ) अच्छा बम्बई से... शूटिंग?

I, still on my phone, searching for a homestay:  Yes, to experience Lathmar Holi.

मैं मेरे फ़ोन पर होमस्टे ढूंढ़ते हुए:  हम्म... लठमार होली देखने|

Rakesh:  This road will be so crowded tomorrow that you won't be able to set foot here.                  
राकेश: ये पूरा रास्ता जो आप देख रही है ना, कल यहाँ पैर रखने की  भी जगह नई होगी| इतनी भीड़ होती है हमारे बरसाना में|                

I, worried and not paying much attention to his words, continued searching on my mobile:  hmm...

मैं चिंतित उसकी बातों पर ज्यादा ध्यान न देते हुए अपने मोबाइल पर सर्च करते  हुए: हम्म...

After a pause, Rakesh added: "You are invited to my house if you want to, my mother makes an extremely delicious tea.                                   

कुछ देर के बाद राकेश ने कहा: हमारे घर पे चाय पी लीजिये| हमारी अम्मा बहुत अच्छी चाय बनाती है |                                                                                

I looked at him with a smile, but I was confused. Why was this stranger so keen on inviting me home. Many random questions surrounded my mind.  I remember how I had been cautioned by my friends and family about how difficult and risky it would be for a female to travel solo. All I had heard were stories about kidnapping, rape, killing and the world being a very dangerous place. But somehow, my instinct urged me to go-ahead.

 

Rakesh with his family

Upon stepping into the house, I was greeted by Rajwati, a cheerful 70-year-old woman comfortably seated on the earthen floor. Her face was adorned with the  warm smile that instantly formed a positive bond. Her welcoming demeanor made me feel at ease. Without delay, she asked Rakesh's wife to prepared tea on a traditional chulha, adding her own rustic charm and an extra touch of skill into the process.

I sat with her on the mud floor, sipping delicious tea with homemade snacks, and we chatted in an open-air living room while listening to the interesting tales of Radha Krishna. After knowing the situation I was facing, without a second thought Rajwati extended a heartfelt invitation for me to stay with her, showing her genuine willingness to support me during this time. I felt quite relaxed and comfortable staying in their house.

Krishna Rasleela 

However, as i was immersed in the stories by Rajwati, I was suddenly distracted by the loud thumb of a dholak, An Indian musical instrument. Rajwati told me that Krishna Rasleela performance was happening in a nearby lane. I got curious and wanted to catch a glimpse of it. I walked up in the direction of the sound, and as I moved closer, the thumps of dholak turned into music. There, a group of male artistes dressed in a woman's attire were performing Krishna Raas Leela that tells about Krishna's childhood days. A large local crowd had gathered to watch the live show.

As if in trance, I sat there amidst many villagers and got immersed in the Krishna vaani, I didn't realise the time until I saw the mesmerising moon playing hide-and- seek with the clouds. That night while lying on the verandah of Rakesh's house gazing at the moon thinking about the big day, I didn't realize when I eventually passed out. 

How is Lathmar Holi Celebrated in Barsana 

After the beautiful Rasleela I enjoyed last night, I was ready to witness Krishna’s pranks in the lanes of Barsana. Barsana is a historical town resonate with the divine love between Radha and Krishna. It is believed that Barsana is the place where Radha Rani belongs. Most of the traveller and devotees from all across India, and even foreigners visit this small village for the unique 'Lathmar Holi' celebration.

Kids dressed up as Lord Krishna and Radha playing Holi with every passer-by on the street

According to folklore, Lord Krishna smeared Radha’s face with colours in order to tone down her fair complexion. So that her complexion would match his dark complexion. The women of the village playfully hurled bamboo sticks at Krishna and his friends in order to scare them away. This tradition has been followed in Barsana and Nandgaon ever since.

Radha Rani Temple Barsana

I found that the human tidal wave was moving towards the famous Radha Rani Temple. And before I knew it, I was being drifted in a particular direction amidst the hoards of people.

The atmosphere inside the Radha Rani Temple was truly enthralling. The men from Nandgaon, calling themselves as Sakhi (friends) of Krishna, dressed up traditionally, eagerly awaiting a glimpse of their beloved Lord Krishna and Radha.

Radha Rani temple photos

As soon as the curtains opened, devotees began throwing colours on the deities of Lord Krishna and Radha. 

Radharani mandir barsana

There were clouds of colours all around accompanied by the beats of drums. Everything turned red-the air, the floor, the people. The crowd started chanting 'Radhe Radhe'. The ambiance was hard to describe, it needs to be experienced in order to know it.

Radha Rani mandir barsana

My face was smeared with colors, and my heart brimming with love. I celebrated the festival of colors like there was no tomorrow.

I followed many Krishnas in the lanes of Barsana, all trying to save themselves from the bamboo sticks being hurled at them by the women. "It was in that particular lane of Barsana that I became Radha!"

Last day in Barsana

As I walked through the quiet lanes of Barsana village, I met an old man shaping lumps of clay into shimmering pots.

As the wheel turned, the potter skillfully molded and shaped the clay into a beautiful vessels. I sat and watched for hours,  even tried countless times but I couldn't achieve the desired shape. However, his smiling face truly brightened my day.

I came back to Rakesh's house and now it was my turn to return the favour. To their surprise, I tried my hand at making lunch on the traditional chulha (An Indian flatbread-making pan). It was more fun than difficult, and the family was pleasantly surprised to witness a city girl taking on household chores.

It was such a delight having meal with the entire family. It was so much fun seeing sweet squabbles between Rajwati and her husband. Suddenly, her husband turned towards me and jokingly suggested that I should take Rajwati to Mumbai since she was too demanding. Laughter filled the room as everyone joined in.

Family time

Soon it was time for me to say goodbye. Today I realised the true essence of 'Atithi Devo bhava' (The guest is equivalent to God). The affection and love that this family extended to me had turned into a special bond. I cherished our time together so much that I resolved right then and there to come back soon. As I say this, it is quite powerful how much I'm going to miss them.

While coming to Mathura, I changed my Turban in pursuit of another Tale. 

                                                               

                                                     Tales of India

                                            Let's travel together on the path to unending euphoria.

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Have you explored Northern India?  If not, then do explore the colourful and culturally enriched city and share your experiences with me.

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- Jaisalmer Tales   

               

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